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Red Hand of Ulster Found in Trastevere by Ann Treacy
June 22, 2011, 5:40 am
Filed under: Rome

This is one of those times when I should get Patrick to do a post – although it would be a very different story. Saturday afternoon we all headed to a church on a hill in Trastevere. It supposedly holds the remains of Hugh O’Neill, who fled to Spain during the Flight of the Earls.

Unfortunately, while this distance wasn’t necessarily great, the incline was! I should note that our group ages range from 6 to 79. I should also note that Patrick was a little map-challenged and didn’t believe his wife when she wisely spied a shortcut that would have turned a steep windy road into a staircase.

Plus it was about 110 degrees in the shade. Actually that’s not really true. One of the big lessons we’ve learned this week is that shade is really, really good. It was probably only 80 degrees in the shade – but 110 on the hill. I have a picture of us getting cooled down with the local fountain. There are fountains like that everywhere and they are very welcome! We were even filling our water bottles in the fountains. In retrospect that might not have been the smartest move – but I feel like if it were going to make us sick, we’d be sick by now.

Anyways, the good news was that this was the place. Patrick got pretty lucky when he asked at the Irish Pub if anyone knew where Hugh O’Neill was buried – and someone did.

There wasn’t a big plaque or anything – but there was a Red Hand of Ulster coat of arms thing on the church. And the view was pretty spectacular.

Our real reward however was a great meal. We ordered a ton of food at a very busy restaurant in Trastevere. It was the kind of place where they suggested more food and we were glad they did. We had caprese salad, calamari, pizza, risotto, gnocchi, carbonara.

2 Comments so far
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Good to know we’re not the only family mad enough to climb up to see the great O’Neill. Great view as well – worth the trip up.

Comment by Paul Jordan

Patrick will be delighted to hear it! We’re here until August – are you in Dublin anytime in July?

Comment by Ann Treacy

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